Rock of eye...What's all that about? 
It's about starting a process within certain boundaries and trusting your eye and the aesthetics of a pattern, rather than focusing on the numbers. In other words, follow the measures, but if it doesn't look right, then change it. It may sound rather slap dash but to ignore exact measures and possibly give or take 1/4" or 3/8" here or there won't actually harm the fit of a Savile Row suit. If you've got a nicely balanced pattern that looks good, it will sew together nicely. Then, with the gift of a good coat maker's skilled hands, you're on the way to making something special.

(Not all in the wrist)


Most Savile Row tailors use standard block patterns that were drafted in their house style. They get tweaked and tuned over the years but it's normally a well tested block. The cutter will then manipulate the pattern to make a personal version for each client. Now, before any cutters get cross and write to tell me they draft from scratch, every time for every client, I believe you. But using a block pattern is often the most common method used and I'm not criticising it. If you use a block you know what you're getting. A well manipulated pattern using measures and figuration's can produce a great fit, as good or maybe better than anything I could do. It's just that I prefer to draft my patterns this way, just as some prefer a car's manual gearbox over an automatic. Also, let's not forget, Savile Row tailoring is about style...which isn't always about fitting a body perfectly. We're to enhance, hide, slim or whatever we can do for the best balance of aesthetics and comfort. Heaven knows we've got laser machines that will measure people better than we could anyway. So with the explanation over, why am I showing you this? 

Unnamed 1
(Skilled hands : Peter, 53 year veteran of Redmayne and Molly, apprentice)


I teach at a British university and we also have many tailors and students who follow us, heaven knows.. they think they might learn something :0 For clients of Redmayne this is probably too much information. But I guess it does help a client understand how we approach our tailoring and what's valuable to us. For the students, I like to show this method to encourage them. You see, when I went to college, systems we were taught that were set in stone and relied strongly on formulas and mathematical equations. There's nothing wrong with that but anyone who's ever drafted a pattern will know that sometimes, even when the measures are right, it just looks plain wrong. And the more you check and confirm the measures the more offensive it looks to the eye. Tailoring is far from an exact science, cloth is almost fluid and every type is different. People and their opinions are also very fluid. So a rigid system of drafting is fine for a textbook pattern but when you try this with a non textbook figure...well, let's just say, that's when the fun starts.

Unnamed
(Bespoke patterns by author)


So when students start out learning to cut patterns, I like to remind them that it's OK to trust your instinct. If you've got an "eye" for nice clothes, your gut will tell you when something isn't right, so learn to trust it. Remember, numbers don't always add up and I could give quite the lesson on gut feelings, but that's another story. What I've found is that it's not wise to ignore your instinct when looking at many situations, not just pattern cutting. If you ignore what you're feeling then the usual outcome is that what you feared. After the fitting you end up telling yourself something like ..."I knew that was wrong, why didn't I change it?" Is it an arcane side to the craft? I don't know. But if we have a sense for nice lines and beautiful clothing, then we should be able to see it through the numbers.


Until next time I hope you enjoy....

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Tom And Claire

About Tom

Tom has been involved at the highest level in the tailoring industry for over 37 years. He has also been blogging and furthering knowledge of the craft for over 15 years. He is married to Claire and has three children.

See how this tailor pays the bills and follow me @Redmayne1860 on Instagram.

Orange…And not just the coat.
Wear your colour at Redmayne.

Cloth from Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack blazers - 302122
.
.
.
#madetomeasuresportscoat #sportscoat #statmentpiece #orangesportscoat #threerolltwo #3roll2 #patchpockets #handsewnbuttonholes #dutchorange #patriotic #dutchman #holland #nationalcolour #redmaynetie #silktie #vannerssilk #silkbraces #albertthurston #albertthurstonbraces #woolscarf #hollandandsherry #handrolled #handrollededges #outfitoftheday #sartorial #sartorialstyle #savilerow #bespoketailor #softtailoring
Throwback Thursday. 

Long live the King…Redmayne was there for our last one.
That’s what you call Heritage.
.
.
.
#throwbackthursday #tbt🔙📸 #coronation #coronationday #longlivetheking #bunting #partyhats #heritage #familybusiness #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuits #softailoring #drapecut #redmayne1860
Luxembourg…Time to dress well. Redmayne are coming.

Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Sherry Tweed 8821106
.
.
.
#hollandandsherry #bespoke #bespokesuit #threepiecesuit #bespoketailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #bespokepattern #travellingtailor #visitluxembourg #luxembourg🇱🇺 #bookyourappointmentnow #softtailoring #sartorialstyle #freshair #walkingonair #redmayne1860 #madetomeasuresuits #madetomeasuretailoring #customtailoring #customsuit
What a weekend… God save the King!
Tom talks about his fittings with the King when he was then Prince of Wales.
.
.
.
#coronation #godsavetheking #longlivetheking #british #adaylikenoother #memorableday #stjamesspalace #royalfittings #princeofwales #themall #royalfamily #royalcelebration #redmayne1860 #bespoketailor #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespokesuit #madetomeasuresuits #customtailor #customtailoring #customsuit
Good morning, it’s Coronation day… A busy one but a wonderful one. How privileged we are to play a small part in this.
.
.
.
#coronation #kingcharles #britishroyalfamily #britishgentleman #knightofrealm #sir #atruegentleman #whatadaytocelebrate #adayofcelebration #🇬🇧 #henrypoole #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #likeavillage #sokind #experts #redmayne1860 #morningsuit #cleverleyshoes #mirrorshine #shinyshoes
Coronation ready… Mr Mahon presses a pair of cashmere stripe trousers for a clients morning suit.
.
.
.
#coronation #attendingthecoronation #pressing #notironing #tailoringterms #iron #pressingtable #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #softtailoring #dressedfortheevent #dressedfortheoccasion #redmayne1860
English Espresso… something for the sunshine.
Redmayne Acclaim 3piece suit, order yours today.

Cloth - Huddersfield Fine Worsted, Fresco III, no.510246
.
.
.
#britishtailoring #thedrapecut #britishtailor #savilerow #ootd #sartorialstyle #madeforthesunshine #fresco #huddersfieldfineworsted #hfw #handbuttonholes #handstitched #handstitchededging #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #headedforitaly #weddingsuit #lookingelegant #classicmenswear #classictailoring #softtailoring #fullcanvassuit #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuit
When Mr Mahon’s in London… The apprentices wanted to try the latest Wes Anderson trend. I think it rather suits our trade…
.
.
.
#wesanderson #wesandersoninspired #accidentallywesanderson #wesandersonmovie #youbetternot #giveitatry #tailoringanatomy #tailoringapprentice #tailoringapprenticeship #lovewhatyoudo #workhardstayhumble #bespoketailor #bespokesuit #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #savilerow #giveitago #tryingsomethingnew #trendingreels #redmayne1860
Big challenges develop bigger skills…Keep on that road.
Redmayne Apprentices.
.
.
.
#tailoring #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #newskills #handskills #trainingthenextgeneration #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespoketailor #bespokecoat #bespokeblazer #handstitched #excitingwork #redmayne1860
Join us for a morning walk in London’s West End. From Piccadilly Circus to the heart of tailoringdom….Redmayne. You know where to come - Literally! 
Enjoy your weekend.
.
.
.
#londoncommute #commutingtowork #thegoldenmile #savilerow #picadillycircus #regentstreet #vigostreet #maddoxstreet #stgeorgestreet #mayfair #londonunderground #thetube #sotherbys #rollsroyce #walktowork #hrh #cutterfortheking #mastertailor #thecrownaffair #thethomascrownaffair #likelivinginamovie #sunshining☀️ #londonlife #fridayfeeling #friyay #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointment #bespokesuits #britishtailoring #bespoketailoring
Molly, Redmayne apprentice. Long road but enjoying the journey. Pass the knowledge on.
.
.
.
#apprentice #apprenticeship #coatmaker #tailor #tailoringterms #classictailoring #classictechniques #startingthemyoung #workinghard #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #bespokecoat #sewnbyhand #basting #padstitching #shrinkingthecanvas #threadmarking #somuchtolearn #suchenthusiasm #greatteam #familybusiness #supportingapprentices #littlebylittle #sharingtheknowledge #sharingthepassion #mastercraftsman #mastertailor #bespokesuit #bespokesportscoat #bespokeblazer
Old skills…Young hands. Happy Easter to you all.
.
.
.
#redmayne1860 #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #classictailoring #trainedbythebest #thekingsman #hrh #handsewn #bespokepatterns #bespokesuit #bespokewaistcoat #rippingdown #rippingdownthejobs #sleeveboard #tailoringterms #espresso #espressorequired #mastertailor #sartorialstyle #softtailoring #thedrapecut #britishdrape #britishsuits #bookyourappointment #happyeaster #easterweekend
Home to the Redmayne workshop and bathed in British sunshine. It’s a happy day back with the team.
.
.
.
#britishtailor #bespoketailor #familybusiness #britishbusiness #mastertailor #bespoketailoringworkshop #tailorsworkshop #traditionaltailoring #mastertailor #cutter #apprentice #tailoringapprentice #coatmaker #smallteam #smallteamgreatpassion #whenthesunshines #thesunisshining #britishmarkettown #markettown #flyingtheflag #unionflag #britishflag #🇬🇧️ #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointmenttoday
What a trip! Thank you everyone, it’s been a pleasure to see you all. Just time for that pint before heading home!
.
.
.
#redmayne1860 #usa #travellingtailor #losangeles #atlanta #newyork #boston #amazingcustomers #howluckyarewe #amazingsuits #sportscoats #blazers #plus4s #gilet #twopiecesuit #threepiecesuit #overcoat #sirensuit #sartorialstyle #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #mastertailor #orderyoursnow #timetoheadhome #britishweather #familytime #familybusiness
“The most valuable commodity I know of is information “ Gordon Gekko.
You know where to come… Redmayne 1860.
.
.
.
#britishtailoring #travellingtailor #usavisit #fullybooked #wallstreet #wallstreetmovie #gordongekko #dresswell #newyorkcity #thecitythatneversleeps #silktie #silkbraces #redmayne1860 ##savilerowtailor #madetomeasuresuits #customsuits #customtailoring #sartorialstyle #ootd #classicmenstyle #classictailoring
Sharp dressed man…

Always a given when your wearing your Redmayne suit. Dress well… Redmayne1860
.
.
.
#sharpdressedman #dresswell #ootd #mensstyle #classictailoring #bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #singlebreasted #doublebreastedsuit #peaklapel #notchlapel #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuit #mtmsuit #customtailoring #customsuit #harrisonsofedinburgh #dugdalebros #hollandandsherry #scabal #orderyours #redmayne1860
It’s Friday and he’s a long flight this weekend…..USA here we come.
Enjoy your weekend.
.
.
.
#kindness #fridayfeeling #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #kindcustomer #gift #unexpectedgift #beer #craftbeer #cellarheadbrewingcompany #chilledbeer🍺 #justwhatheneeded #hugethanks #usaherewecome #usaherewecome✈️🇺🇸 #losangeles #atlanta #newyorkcity #boston #fullybooked #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #mtm #customtailoring #britishbespoke #savilerow #savilerowtailor #redmayne1860 mayne1860
A cold morning….It’s ok, 13oz 3 piece will do the trick. 
Enjoy your day and Dress Well.
.
.
.
#madetomeasure #madetomeasuresuit #acclaim #handfinished #handfinishedbuttonhole #handstitchedbuttonholes #threepiecesuit #3piecesuit #greysuit #greybirdseyesuit #birdseyecloth #traintravel #northener #northenrail #offtolondon #snowiscoming #customerstosee #newappointments #firstfittings #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #redmayne1860
Ladies wearing braces….Why not, especially today. 
What do you think?

Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack Blazers, 3020005
.
.
.
#bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #2piecesuit #2pcsuit #savilerowtailor #hollandandsherry #hollandandsherryapparel #meshcloth #ladiessuits #suitfortheboss #albertthurstonbraces #albertthurston #silkbraces #britishbraces #buynow #vannerssilk #ladyceo #womeninbusiness #internationalwomensday #somethingtobeproudof #redmayne1860 #bespoke #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring
Simple black coat…. Not really, time for the Oscar’s.
We better get a move on!

Cloth - Smith Woollens, Formal & Dress Wear, 7844
.
.
.
#bespoketailoring #bespokedinnersuit #britishtailoring #formalwear #tuxedo #dinnerjacket #specialoccasion #bespokelining #oscars #theoscars2023 #whatelsewouldyouexpect #ootd #willyouspotus #keepguessing #fullcanvassuit #silklapels #fitting #softailoring #smithwoollens #barathea #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #neededasap‼️ #deadlineapproaching #handsewn #redmayne1860 #
The ultimate bespoke drape cut… You know it makes sense.

See the full video on our YouTube channel - Savile Row Tales.
.
.
.
#youtubechannel #savilerow #savilerowtales #mastercutter #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #thedrapecut #rockofeye #softtailoring #harristweed #harristweedjacket #vintagetweed #bespoketweedjacket #japan #longwaytotravel #worthavisit #tripofalifetime #whatwouldyouorder #savilerowtailor #sartorialstyle #redmayne1860 #bespokesuit #customtailoring & #madetomeasuresuits
Morning Will… Talented apprentices, if you can sew, you can sew anything. Another day at Redmayne.
.
.
.
#apprentice #coatmaker #apprenticecoatmaker #tailoring #bespoketailoring #britishtailoring #handsewn #multitalented #skilledtrade #goodmorning #greetings #goodmorningwill #notwhatyouexpected #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #manyhandsmakelightwork #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #sartiorialstyle
Disco drafting… you can tell we’re busy.
.
.
.
#bespokesuit #bespokepattern #rockofeye #draftingbyhand #bespoketailor #mastertailor #rockofeye #yearsofexperience #likenoother #futureootd #specialsuit #classictailoring #softtailoring #madebyhand #britishtailoring #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #mastercraftsman #learnfromthebest #redmayne1860 #disco #discodancing #speeddrafting #hyperlapse #mondaymotivation #mondaymood
This error message is only visible to WordPress admins
Error: Access Token is not valid or has expired. Feed will not update.
Top magnifiercross-circle