As often happens, one of our readers asked me a simple short question. And as usual I answered it.. in about 25 minutes. I’m sorry, but I don’t script these so I can go on a bit.

(Stick around)

I enjoy what I do and I like showing you behind the scenes of what’s involved with Savile Row suits, including bespoke and made to measure tailoring. It’s a combination of art and science, but the edges get blurred together, so the result is often a few answers to one question. The perfect example of ‘There is more than one way to skin a cat’.

Unnamed 7 1
(From my personal collection, Phillip Dellafera, Principle, Tailor and Cutter Academy)

Anyway, today’s question is about “balance”. So what’s that all about? Well, what it is not, is tailors advice for a better living. I assure you, I’m the last person you should go to for that. What I’m talking about is the cutting side of the term, of which, your average client has probably no knowledge, and nor should they. That’s the tailors job, and like most details about the fit and make of both bespoke and made to measure tailoring. These details should be left in the hopefully, capable hands of a bespoke cutter or made to measure fitter. Obviously, we make both so our made to measure suit clients get a bit more bang for their buck. Whilst writing, I’d like to give a big thank you to Paola, all the way from Italy via Liverpool University, where I have the pleasure to teach from time to time. Paola was kind enough to join in with my ramblings whilst spending a couple of days with us. It was lovely to have such bright and charming company and we all hope she’s enjoyed her visit and didn’t get too overwhelmed about our craft.

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(He knows his stuff)

The “balance” of coat is fundamental to the proper fit of a garment. When correct your coat just feels right, immediately as you slip it on. It doesn’t matter how big, small, long or short a garment is. Incorrect balance…and it’s not happening. This also extends to all garments but that’s another story. The balance of a coat is how the garment has been cut in relation to your posture. Balance amendments are made for people with a large, full chest or the opposite and other figuration details. People who practice yoga every day often have a finer figure than Savile Row cutters who spend their lives bent over cutting boards and drink beer to gain their mindfulness. I wont witter on as I know my readers are very sharp and sure you’ll all be getting the gist of what I’m on about.

To explain further, try to endure the short video (I did try) if you want to know more. Also, if you’re looking to be a star of the internet and get a bespoke suit at a bargain price then suffer to the end and you may be well rewarded. 

Thanks for dropping by and keep up the yoga.

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Tom And Claire

About Tom

Tom has been involved at the highest level in the tailoring industry for over 37 years. He has also been blogging and furthering knowledge of the craft for over 15 years. He is married to Claire and has three children.

See how this tailor pays the bills and follow me @Redmayne1860 on Instagram.

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