One way cloths...what exactly does that mean? In simple terms, it's exactly as it sounds: cloth is woven or designed in such a way that when parts of a garment are cut, they must all be running the same way. If they're cut "up and down" as we say on the Row, you'll end up in big trouble. Also, depending on the type of cloth and weave, especially if it has a nap or pile then consideration has to be taken into whether the pile is cut running down the garment or up. In the video below I tell a tale of when I fell victim to this mistake whilst at Anderson & Sheppard...not my finest hour.


Because of the nature of Savile Row tailoring we can be very specific on how we cut cloth. In the mass tailoring trade, cloth and garment style decisions are made for bulk orders. However, for Savile Row bespoke and made to measure tailoring, we have the luxury to make choices about how a length of cloth is cut and these choices can make quite a difference to the outcome.

Unnamed 1 1
(Classic, one way Prince of Wales by Dugdale Bro's)


The above paragraphs have probably got you scratching your head and wondering what on earth, I'm talking about. Well, if it's any consolation, I've just written the above and I don't think I'm making myself particularly clear either. However, the wonder of the iphone pro will save the day and I hope the video below will explain more clearly what I'm going on about. If you watch the video, you may learn a couple of tricks of the trade to consider. While I'm here, I'm delighted to announce that the three suit winners offered in my last post have been chosen out of the hat; well done to Daniel and Charlie from England and Steve from New York. Thank you to everyone who entered, it was lovely to hear from you and sorry if you weren't lucky this time. I would say you can witness all the excitement of the draw in this short video. But I'm afraid it's not short and runs for 26 minutes....but hey, you may still find it exciting.

(make yourself comfortable)


So get yourself comfortable, make a cuppa, pull a pint or pour something stronger. Lock down is on so you may as well sit back and hopefully enjoy....we've all got time.

One comment on “one way only.....but which way?”

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Tom And Claire

About Tom

Tom has been involved at the highest level in the tailoring industry for over 37 years. He has also been blogging and furthering knowledge of the craft for over 15 years. He is married to Claire and has three children.

See how this tailor pays the bills and follow me @Redmayne1860 on Instagram.

Orange…And not just the coat.
Wear your colour at Redmayne.

Cloth from Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack blazers - 302122
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#madetomeasuresportscoat #sportscoat #statmentpiece #orangesportscoat #threerolltwo #3roll2 #patchpockets #handsewnbuttonholes #dutchorange #patriotic #dutchman #holland #nationalcolour #redmaynetie #silktie #vannerssilk #silkbraces #albertthurston #albertthurstonbraces #woolscarf #hollandandsherry #handrolled #handrollededges #outfitoftheday #sartorial #sartorialstyle #savilerow #bespoketailor #softtailoring
Throwback Thursday. 

Long live the King…Redmayne was there for our last one.
That’s what you call Heritage.
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#throwbackthursday #tbt🔙📸 #coronation #coronationday #longlivetheking #bunting #partyhats #heritage #familybusiness #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuits #softailoring #drapecut #redmayne1860
Luxembourg…Time to dress well. Redmayne are coming.

Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Sherry Tweed 8821106
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#hollandandsherry #bespoke #bespokesuit #threepiecesuit #bespoketailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #bespokepattern #travellingtailor #visitluxembourg #luxembourg🇱🇺 #bookyourappointmentnow #softtailoring #sartorialstyle #freshair #walkingonair #redmayne1860 #madetomeasuresuits #madetomeasuretailoring #customtailoring #customsuit
What a weekend… God save the King!
Tom talks about his fittings with the King when he was then Prince of Wales.
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#coronation #godsavetheking #longlivetheking #british #adaylikenoother #memorableday #stjamesspalace #royalfittings #princeofwales #themall #royalfamily #royalcelebration #redmayne1860 #bespoketailor #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespokesuit #madetomeasuresuits #customtailor #customtailoring #customsuit
Good morning, it’s Coronation day… A busy one but a wonderful one. How privileged we are to play a small part in this.
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#coronation #kingcharles #britishroyalfamily #britishgentleman #knightofrealm #sir #atruegentleman #whatadaytocelebrate #adayofcelebration #🇬🇧 #henrypoole #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #likeavillage #sokind #experts #redmayne1860 #morningsuit #cleverleyshoes #mirrorshine #shinyshoes
Coronation ready… Mr Mahon presses a pair of cashmere stripe trousers for a clients morning suit.
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#coronation #attendingthecoronation #pressing #notironing #tailoringterms #iron #pressingtable #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #softtailoring #dressedfortheevent #dressedfortheoccasion #redmayne1860
English Espresso… something for the sunshine.
Redmayne Acclaim 3piece suit, order yours today.

Cloth - Huddersfield Fine Worsted, Fresco III, no.510246
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#britishtailoring #thedrapecut #britishtailor #savilerow #ootd #sartorialstyle #madeforthesunshine #fresco #huddersfieldfineworsted #hfw #handbuttonholes #handstitched #handstitchededging #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #headedforitaly #weddingsuit #lookingelegant #classicmenswear #classictailoring #softtailoring #fullcanvassuit #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuit
When Mr Mahon’s in London… The apprentices wanted to try the latest Wes Anderson trend. I think it rather suits our trade…
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#wesanderson #wesandersoninspired #accidentallywesanderson #wesandersonmovie #youbetternot #giveitatry #tailoringanatomy #tailoringapprentice #tailoringapprenticeship #lovewhatyoudo #workhardstayhumble #bespoketailor #bespokesuit #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #savilerow #giveitago #tryingsomethingnew #trendingreels #redmayne1860
Big challenges develop bigger skills…Keep on that road.
Redmayne Apprentices.
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#tailoring #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #newskills #handskills #trainingthenextgeneration #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespoketailor #bespokecoat #bespokeblazer #handstitched #excitingwork #redmayne1860
Join us for a morning walk in London’s West End. From Piccadilly Circus to the heart of tailoringdom….Redmayne. You know where to come - Literally! 
Enjoy your weekend.
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#londoncommute #commutingtowork #thegoldenmile #savilerow #picadillycircus #regentstreet #vigostreet #maddoxstreet #stgeorgestreet #mayfair #londonunderground #thetube #sotherbys #rollsroyce #walktowork #hrh #cutterfortheking #mastertailor #thecrownaffair #thethomascrownaffair #likelivinginamovie #sunshining☀️ #londonlife #fridayfeeling #friyay #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointment #bespokesuits #britishtailoring #bespoketailoring
Molly, Redmayne apprentice. Long road but enjoying the journey. Pass the knowledge on.
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#apprentice #apprenticeship #coatmaker #tailor #tailoringterms #classictailoring #classictechniques #startingthemyoung #workinghard #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #bespokecoat #sewnbyhand #basting #padstitching #shrinkingthecanvas #threadmarking #somuchtolearn #suchenthusiasm #greatteam #familybusiness #supportingapprentices #littlebylittle #sharingtheknowledge #sharingthepassion #mastercraftsman #mastertailor #bespokesuit #bespokesportscoat #bespokeblazer
Old skills…Young hands. Happy Easter to you all.
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#redmayne1860 #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #classictailoring #trainedbythebest #thekingsman #hrh #handsewn #bespokepatterns #bespokesuit #bespokewaistcoat #rippingdown #rippingdownthejobs #sleeveboard #tailoringterms #espresso #espressorequired #mastertailor #sartorialstyle #softtailoring #thedrapecut #britishdrape #britishsuits #bookyourappointment #happyeaster #easterweekend
Home to the Redmayne workshop and bathed in British sunshine. It’s a happy day back with the team.
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#britishtailor #bespoketailor #familybusiness #britishbusiness #mastertailor #bespoketailoringworkshop #tailorsworkshop #traditionaltailoring #mastertailor #cutter #apprentice #tailoringapprentice #coatmaker #smallteam #smallteamgreatpassion #whenthesunshines #thesunisshining #britishmarkettown #markettown #flyingtheflag #unionflag #britishflag #🇬🇧️ #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointmenttoday
What a trip! Thank you everyone, it’s been a pleasure to see you all. Just time for that pint before heading home!
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#redmayne1860 #usa #travellingtailor #losangeles #atlanta #newyork #boston #amazingcustomers #howluckyarewe #amazingsuits #sportscoats #blazers #plus4s #gilet #twopiecesuit #threepiecesuit #overcoat #sirensuit #sartorialstyle #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #mastertailor #orderyoursnow #timetoheadhome #britishweather #familytime #familybusiness
“The most valuable commodity I know of is information “ Gordon Gekko.
You know where to come… Redmayne 1860.
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#britishtailoring #travellingtailor #usavisit #fullybooked #wallstreet #wallstreetmovie #gordongekko #dresswell #newyorkcity #thecitythatneversleeps #silktie #silkbraces #redmayne1860 ##savilerowtailor #madetomeasuresuits #customsuits #customtailoring #sartorialstyle #ootd #classicmenstyle #classictailoring
Sharp dressed man…

Always a given when your wearing your Redmayne suit. Dress well… Redmayne1860
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#sharpdressedman #dresswell #ootd #mensstyle #classictailoring #bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #singlebreasted #doublebreastedsuit #peaklapel #notchlapel #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuit #mtmsuit #customtailoring #customsuit #harrisonsofedinburgh #dugdalebros #hollandandsherry #scabal #orderyours #redmayne1860
It’s Friday and he’s a long flight this weekend…..USA here we come.
Enjoy your weekend.
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#kindness #fridayfeeling #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #kindcustomer #gift #unexpectedgift #beer #craftbeer #cellarheadbrewingcompany #chilledbeer🍺 #justwhatheneeded #hugethanks #usaherewecome #usaherewecome✈️🇺🇸 #losangeles #atlanta #newyorkcity #boston #fullybooked #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #mtm #customtailoring #britishbespoke #savilerow #savilerowtailor #redmayne1860 mayne1860
A cold morning….It’s ok, 13oz 3 piece will do the trick. 
Enjoy your day and Dress Well.
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#madetomeasure #madetomeasuresuit #acclaim #handfinished #handfinishedbuttonhole #handstitchedbuttonholes #threepiecesuit #3piecesuit #greysuit #greybirdseyesuit #birdseyecloth #traintravel #northener #northenrail #offtolondon #snowiscoming #customerstosee #newappointments #firstfittings #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #redmayne1860
Ladies wearing braces….Why not, especially today. 
What do you think?

Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack Blazers, 3020005
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#bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #2piecesuit #2pcsuit #savilerowtailor #hollandandsherry #hollandandsherryapparel #meshcloth #ladiessuits #suitfortheboss #albertthurstonbraces #albertthurston #silkbraces #britishbraces #buynow #vannerssilk #ladyceo #womeninbusiness #internationalwomensday #somethingtobeproudof #redmayne1860 #bespoke #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring
Simple black coat…. Not really, time for the Oscar’s.
We better get a move on!

Cloth - Smith Woollens, Formal & Dress Wear, 7844
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#bespoketailoring #bespokedinnersuit #britishtailoring #formalwear #tuxedo #dinnerjacket #specialoccasion #bespokelining #oscars #theoscars2023 #whatelsewouldyouexpect #ootd #willyouspotus #keepguessing #fullcanvassuit #silklapels #fitting #softailoring #smithwoollens #barathea #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #neededasap‼️ #deadlineapproaching #handsewn #redmayne1860 #
The ultimate bespoke drape cut… You know it makes sense.

See the full video on our YouTube channel - Savile Row Tales.
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#youtubechannel #savilerow #savilerowtales #mastercutter #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #thedrapecut #rockofeye #softtailoring #harristweed #harristweedjacket #vintagetweed #bespoketweedjacket #japan #longwaytotravel #worthavisit #tripofalifetime #whatwouldyouorder #savilerowtailor #sartorialstyle #redmayne1860 #bespokesuit #customtailoring & #madetomeasuresuits
Morning Will… Talented apprentices, if you can sew, you can sew anything. Another day at Redmayne.
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#apprentice #coatmaker #apprenticecoatmaker #tailoring #bespoketailoring #britishtailoring #handsewn #multitalented #skilledtrade #goodmorning #greetings #goodmorningwill #notwhatyouexpected #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #manyhandsmakelightwork #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #sartiorialstyle
Disco drafting… you can tell we’re busy.
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#bespokesuit #bespokepattern #rockofeye #draftingbyhand #bespoketailor #mastertailor #rockofeye #yearsofexperience #likenoother #futureootd #specialsuit #classictailoring #softtailoring #madebyhand #britishtailoring #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #mastercraftsman #learnfromthebest #redmayne1860 #disco #discodancing #speeddrafting #hyperlapse #mondaymotivation #mondaymood
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