Thomas Mahon : Tailor : Sailor : Father
Thomas Mahon : Tailor : Sailor : Father
The English Drape suit is certainly one of the most misunderstood legends of Savile Row. Of course, one of the greatest purveyors of such is my old Alma Mater, Anderson & Sheppard. Anderson's, as those in the trade call them, are particularly famous for a few reasons. Certainly, they're a typical stalwart of Savile Row and rank amongst the great tailoring houses, such as Pooles, Huntsman and Dege etc.
But to my mind, the reason why they've stood out over the years is because of the style of clothing they make. I was privileged to work at Anderson's for a number of years and also to train with the old guard, most of which have sadly passed away.
I went to Anderson's, trained as a cutter from Redmayne at the keen age of 24, and I left much wiser at 29 to start my own business. I do have to say that my time there was wonderful and it was good timing, as I was the final apprentice to Mr Dennis Hallbery. He was the head cutter and I (unsurprisingly) would judge him as one of the best. But it's not just me who thought so, as his classic work is displayed in the Victoria and Albert museum, London.
The reason for this post is not to wax lyrical about the good old days, although they were great times. The reason I write is to try and quantify, what makes an Anderson coat, or in other words an English drape cut? I've read a few articles giving opinions of what is good or bad about various styles of suits but it's often from a (rightly so) biased customer's point of view, or from a commentator who's received a free sample. I'm sorry, but many of these expert opinions simply don't understand what goes into bespoke cutting or tailoring. Opinions are given from a position of authority that's never really been earned. On the other hand I've been involved in these garments every day, for over 30 years. By now I hope to have a reasonable idea about what really makes the classic English drape cut. I remind you that this is only my personal opinion and I don't claim to be a world authority on tailoring. There's plenty of craftsmen that I know, love and drink with that have triple the knowledge I have. But if you find this somewhat enlightening and interesting, then that's good enough for me.
I'd also like you to note that I'll never explain all of this in a single post. Firstly it's impossible, and secondly there's no point. As 99% of readers will only use this it as a tool to choose your tailor or purely for a little sartorial enlightenment. It's not an educational aid, as the only answer to that is 10,000 hours of training. So with that note out of the way, let's have a look into one of the mysteries of Savile Row tailoring.
To help explain some of the key details, I'm fortunate to have the help of a good friend and client of 30 years to help me. Stuart Palmer walked into Anderson's about 30 years ago and was introduced to a young cutter. That of course was me, and after he had a couple of Anderson's suits the relationship was formed and he decided to follow me as I branched out on my own. I keep going on about this, but it's a simple fact that this business is built on the trust found in a relationship. I see my clients as friends, some of which came to my wedding, join our family on holiday and put simply, we just do our best and they support us through good times and bad. Obviously, in these peculiar times loyal support is much appreciated and valued by all craftsmen. To keep this simple, I'm going to try and give you some insight using two videos.
The first is when my client innocently arrived to have some of his wardrobe altered. As luck would have it he had a few very different examples with him and it prompted me to write this post. Stuart has examples that I cut at Andersons and when I branched out on my own. There's also a very recent coat from 2017. In comparison he has a lovely coat tailored by Denman & Goddard. The D&G coat is interesting as it's a different style to my own but it's still a lovely coat in every respect. The D&G is a sharper cut with its own character. Hopefully these examples and my short videos may at least demonstrate that in the art of tailoring, no two coats are ever the same, thank goodness.
I'm not a movie maker so please forgive me for the movie quality. I've tried to describe the visual, and physical attributes of a few differently tailored garments. It's a little quick and I can't even keep up with it myself so I did a follow up for you. The second video is at the cutting board and at a slower pace, which I hope will be a little clearer to understand. I've also added some imagery of the examples that I've cut over the years. Hopefully you'll gain a little insight into how unique and personal, bespoke cutting is. Enjoy and see you soon.
Tom has been involved at the highest level in the tailoring industry for over 37 years. He has also been blogging and furthering knowledge of the craft for over 15 years. He is married to Claire and has three children.
Orange…And not just the coat.
Wear your colour at Redmayne.
Cloth from Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack blazers - 302122
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#madetomeasuresportscoat #sportscoat #statmentpiece #orangesportscoat #threerolltwo #3roll2 #patchpockets #handsewnbuttonholes #dutchorange #patriotic #dutchman #holland #nationalcolour #redmaynetie #silktie #vannerssilk #silkbraces #albertthurston #albertthurstonbraces #woolscarf #hollandandsherry #handrolled #handrollededges #outfitoftheday #sartorial #sartorialstyle #savilerow #bespoketailor #softtailoring
Throwback Thursday.
Long live the King…Redmayne was there for our last one.
That’s what you call Heritage.
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#throwbackthursday #tbt🔙📸 #coronation #coronationday #longlivetheking #bunting #partyhats #heritage #familybusiness #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuits #softailoring #drapecut #redmayne1860
Luxembourg…Time to dress well. Redmayne are coming.
Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Sherry Tweed 8821106
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#hollandandsherry #bespoke #bespokesuit #threepiecesuit #bespoketailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #bespokepattern #travellingtailor #visitluxembourg #luxembourg🇱🇺 #bookyourappointmentnow #softtailoring #sartorialstyle #freshair #walkingonair #redmayne1860 #madetomeasuresuits #madetomeasuretailoring #customtailoring #customsuit
What a weekend… God save the King!
Tom talks about his fittings with the King when he was then Prince of Wales.
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#coronation #godsavetheking #longlivetheking #british #adaylikenoother #memorableday #stjamesspalace #royalfittings #princeofwales #themall #royalfamily #royalcelebration #redmayne1860 #bespoketailor #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespokesuit #madetomeasuresuits #customtailor #customtailoring #customsuit
Good morning, it’s Coronation day… A busy one but a wonderful one. How privileged we are to play a small part in this.
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#coronation #kingcharles #britishroyalfamily #britishgentleman #knightofrealm #sir #atruegentleman #whatadaytocelebrate #adayofcelebration #🇬🇧 #henrypoole #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #likeavillage #sokind #experts #redmayne1860 #morningsuit #cleverleyshoes #mirrorshine #shinyshoes
Coronation ready… Mr Mahon presses a pair of cashmere stripe trousers for a clients morning suit.
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#coronation #attendingthecoronation #pressing #notironing #tailoringterms #iron #pressingtable #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #softtailoring #dressedfortheevent #dressedfortheoccasion #redmayne1860
May the 4th be with you… Throwback Thursday Redmaynes youngest (future) cutter.
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#may4th #may4thbewithyou #starwars #starwarsfan #mandalorian #bigfan #dressup #homemadecostume #whenyourparentsaretailors #luckyboy #throwbackthursday #tbt #futurecutter #mastertailor #bespokeoutfit #bespoketailors #bespoketailoring #lovewhatyoudo #savilerow #savilerowtailors #redmayne1860 #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuits
English Espresso… something for the sunshine.
Redmayne Acclaim 3piece suit, order yours today.
Cloth - Huddersfield Fine Worsted, Fresco III, no.510246
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#britishtailoring #thedrapecut #britishtailor #savilerow #ootd #sartorialstyle #madeforthesunshine #fresco #huddersfieldfineworsted #hfw #handbuttonholes #handstitched #handstitchededging #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #headedforitaly #weddingsuit #lookingelegant #classicmenswear #classictailoring #softtailoring #fullcanvassuit #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #customsuit
When Mr Mahon’s in London… The apprentices wanted to try the latest Wes Anderson trend. I think it rather suits our trade…
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#wesanderson #wesandersoninspired #accidentallywesanderson #wesandersonmovie #youbetternot #giveitatry #tailoringanatomy #tailoringapprentice #tailoringapprenticeship #lovewhatyoudo #workhardstayhumble #bespoketailor #bespokesuit #bespoketailoring #mastertailor #savilerow #giveitago #tryingsomethingnew #trendingreels #redmayne1860
Happy Birthday Mr Henderson. St George’s Day was made for you.
Thank you for being the best. Much love and gratitude from the Redmayne family.
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#mastercraftsman #alifetimeswork #howluckywearetohaveyou #mastercoatmaker #coatmaker #tailoringskills #partytime #specialbirthday #winkwink #generations #passingontheknowledge #teachingapprentices #redmayne1860 #bespoketailoring #bespoketailor #madetomeasuresuits #mtmsuit
Big challenges develop bigger skills…Keep on that road.
Redmayne Apprentices.
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#tailoring #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #newskills #handskills #trainingthenextgeneration #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #bespoketailor #bespokecoat #bespokeblazer #handstitched #excitingwork #redmayne1860
Join us for a morning walk in London’s West End. From Piccadilly Circus to the heart of tailoringdom….Redmayne. You know where to come - Literally!
Enjoy your weekend.
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#londoncommute #commutingtowork #thegoldenmile #savilerow #picadillycircus #regentstreet #vigostreet #maddoxstreet #stgeorgestreet #mayfair #londonunderground #thetube #sotherbys #rollsroyce #walktowork #hrh #cutterfortheking #mastertailor #thecrownaffair #thethomascrownaffair #likelivinginamovie #sunshining☀️ #londonlife #fridayfeeling #friyay #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointment #bespokesuits #britishtailoring #bespoketailoring
Molly, Redmayne apprentice. Long road but enjoying the journey. Pass the knowledge on.
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#apprentice #apprenticeship #coatmaker #tailor #tailoringterms #classictailoring #classictechniques #startingthemyoung #workinghard #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #bespokecoat #sewnbyhand #basting #padstitching #shrinkingthecanvas #threadmarking #somuchtolearn #suchenthusiasm #greatteam #familybusiness #supportingapprentices #littlebylittle #sharingtheknowledge #sharingthepassion #mastercraftsman #mastertailor #bespokesuit #bespokesportscoat #bespokeblazer
Old skills…Young hands. Happy Easter to you all.
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#redmayne1860 #tailoringapprentice #apprenticeship #classictailoring #trainedbythebest #thekingsman #hrh #handsewn #bespokepatterns #bespokesuit #bespokewaistcoat #rippingdown #rippingdownthejobs #sleeveboard #tailoringterms #espresso #espressorequired #mastertailor #sartorialstyle #softtailoring #thedrapecut #britishdrape #britishsuits #bookyourappointment #happyeaster #easterweekend
Home to the Redmayne workshop and bathed in British sunshine. It’s a happy day back with the team.
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#britishtailor #bespoketailor #familybusiness #britishbusiness #mastertailor #bespoketailoringworkshop #tailorsworkshop #traditionaltailoring #mastertailor #cutter #apprentice #tailoringapprentice #coatmaker #smallteam #smallteamgreatpassion #whenthesunshines #thesunisshining #britishmarkettown #markettown #flyingtheflag #unionflag #britishflag #🇬🇧️ #redmayne1860 #bookyourappointmenttoday
What a trip! Thank you everyone, it’s been a pleasure to see you all. Just time for that pint before heading home!
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#redmayne1860 #usa #travellingtailor #losangeles #atlanta #newyork #boston #amazingcustomers #howluckyarewe #amazingsuits #sportscoats #blazers #plus4s #gilet #twopiecesuit #threepiecesuit #overcoat #sirensuit #sartorialstyle #savilerowtailor #savilerowbespoke #mastertailor #orderyoursnow #timetoheadhome #britishweather #familytime #familybusiness
“The most valuable commodity I know of is information “ Gordon Gekko.
You know where to come… Redmayne 1860.
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#britishtailoring #travellingtailor #usavisit #fullybooked #wallstreet #wallstreetmovie #gordongekko #dresswell #newyorkcity #thecitythatneversleeps #silktie #silkbraces #redmayne1860 ##savilerowtailor #madetomeasuresuits #customsuits #customtailoring #sartorialstyle #ootd #classicmenstyle #classictailoring
Sharp dressed man…
Always a given when your wearing your Redmayne suit. Dress well… Redmayne1860
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#sharpdressedman #dresswell #ootd #mensstyle #classictailoring #bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #singlebreasted #doublebreastedsuit #peaklapel #notchlapel #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #savilerowtailoring #madetomeasuresuit #mtmsuit #customtailoring #customsuit #harrisonsofedinburgh #dugdalebros #hollandandsherry #scabal #orderyours #redmayne1860
Now…That’s a sports coat. Not a bad Redmayne tie either.
No wonder we’re busy.
Cloth - Harrison’s of Edinburgh, W. Bill 15908
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#britishbespoke #bespokesportscoat #sportscoat #boundforlosangeles #losangeles #wbill #wbill1846 #britishcloth #softtailoring #threerolltwo #3roll2 #checkedsportscoat #mastertailor #savilerow #savilerowtailor #dresswell #standoutstyle #dontblendin #ootd #redmayne1860 #bespoke #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring
It’s Friday and he’s a long flight this weekend…..USA here we come.
Enjoy your weekend.
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#kindness #fridayfeeling #workinghard #workinghardpaysoff #kindcustomer #gift #unexpectedgift #beer #craftbeer #cellarheadbrewingcompany #chilledbeer🍺 #justwhatheneeded #hugethanks #usaherewecome #usaherewecome✈️🇺🇸 #losangeles #atlanta #newyorkcity #boston #fullybooked #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #mtm #customtailoring #britishbespoke #savilerow #savilerowtailor #redmayne1860 mayne1860
Oscar winners wearing Redmayne 1860 bespoke suits. Congratulations Sir’s we are so proud to have worked with you on such a special occasion.
Redmayne Bespoke suits - cloth, Smith Woollens 7844, lining bespoke design by Charlie Mackesy.
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#bespokesuit #blacksuit #harrisonsofedinburgh #smithwoollens #bespokelining #handdrawn #penandink #penandinkdrawing #ootd #mensootd #oscarwinner #theoscars #theoscars2023 #theboythemolethefoxandthehorse #sartorialstyle #classictailoring #softtailoring #savilerowbespoke #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #savilerow #rockofeye #
It’s A Love Thing… The Boy, the Mole, the Fox and the Horse by Charlie Mackesy.
Oscar nominee 2023. Dressed by Redmayne.
Cloth - Smith Woollens, black barathea 12oz
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#bespokesuit #britishtailoring #savilerow #mastertailor #oscarnominee #goingforgold #theboythemolethefoxandthehorse #charliemackesy #britishartist #bbc #appletv #worldwidesellingartist #amazingbook #whataprivilege #handdrawnanimation #animatedstory #whatateam #abookforallages #heartwarming #redcarpet #theoscars #theoscars2023 #whoareyouwearingtonight #redmayne1860 #britishtailors #familybusiness #bespoke & #madetomeasuretailoring #customtailoring #customsuits
A cold morning….It’s ok, 13oz 3 piece will do the trick.
Enjoy your day and Dress Well.
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#madetomeasure #madetomeasuresuit #acclaim #handfinished #handfinishedbuttonhole #handstitchedbuttonholes #threepiecesuit #3piecesuit #greysuit #greybirdseyesuit #birdseyecloth #traintravel #northener #northenrail #offtolondon #snowiscoming #customerstosee #newappointments #firstfittings #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #redmayne1860
Ladies wearing braces….Why not, especially today.
What do you think?
Cloth - Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack Blazers, 3020005
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#bespoketailoring #bespokesuit #2piecesuit #2pcsuit #savilerowtailor #hollandandsherry #hollandandsherryapparel #meshcloth #ladiessuits #suitfortheboss #albertthurstonbraces #albertthurston #silkbraces #britishbraces #buynow #vannerssilk #ladyceo #womeninbusiness #internationalwomensday #somethingtobeproudof #redmayne1860 #bespoke #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring
Redmayne, Ready to be worn…. Something special is coming.
Want one? Let us know - hello@redmayne1860.com
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#britishtailors #britishtailoring #somethingnew #readytobeworn #manssuit #2piecesuit #twopiecesuit #greysharkskin #britishcloth #softtailoring #fullcanvas #threerolltwo #3roll2 #yourbritishtailor #savilerow #savilerowtailoring #mastertailor #getready #redmayne1860 #iscomingsoon #preorder
Simple black coat…. Not really, time for the Oscar’s.
We better get a move on!
Cloth - Smith Woollens, Formal & Dress Wear, 7844
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#bespoketailoring #bespokedinnersuit #britishtailoring #formalwear #tuxedo #dinnerjacket #specialoccasion #bespokelining #oscars #theoscars2023 #whatelsewouldyouexpect #ootd #willyouspotus #keepguessing #fullcanvassuit #silklapels #fitting #softailoring #smithwoollens #barathea #mastertailor #savilerowtailor #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #neededasap‼️ #deadlineapproaching #handsewn #redmayne1860 #
Easy elegance….Bespoke Redmayne 3/4 length topcoat. Button through, patch pockets. Style and comfort comes easy.
Cloth - Huddersfield Fine Worsted, JJ Minnis 510064
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#bespoke #bespoketailoring #britishtailoring #classictailoring #softtailoring #savilerow #mastertailor #savilerowbespoke #bespokeovercoat #overcoat #glencheck #huddersfieldfineworsted #luxuryflannel #flannel #purpleovercheck #staywarm #dresswell #sartorialstyle #redmayne1860 #bespokesuit #customtailoring #madetomeasuresuits
The ultimate bespoke drape cut… You know it makes sense.
See the full video on our YouTube channel - Savile Row Tales.
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#youtubechannel #savilerow #savilerowtales #mastercutter #bespoketailor #bespoketailoring #thedrapecut #rockofeye #softtailoring #harristweed #harristweedjacket #vintagetweed #bespoketweedjacket #japan #longwaytotravel #worthavisit #tripofalifetime #whatwouldyouorder #savilerowtailor #sartorialstyle #redmayne1860 #bespokesuit #customtailoring & #madetomeasuresuits
A couple of days away, but still working… Greetings from Bavaria.
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#shortbreak #familytime #bavaria #visitbavaria #garmishpartenkirchen #garmish #thealps #snow #mountainscape #zugspitze #theplaceswego #traintravel #flyless #smoothjourney #timetowork #allworkandnoplay #workinghardorhardlyworking #redmayne1860 #britishtailors #britishtailoring #travellingtailor #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #bespoketailoring #madetomeasuresuits & #customtailoring
Morning Will… Talented apprentices, if you can sew, you can sew anything. Another day at Redmayne.
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#apprentice #coatmaker #apprenticecoatmaker #tailoring #bespoketailoring #britishtailoring #handsewn #multitalented #skilledtrade #goodmorning #greetings #goodmorningwill #notwhatyouexpected #savilerow #savilerowtailor #mastertailor #manyhandsmakelightwork #redmayne1860 #bespoke & #madetomeasuresuits #customtailoring #sartiorialstyle
Disco drafting… you can tell we’re busy.
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#bespokesuit #bespokepattern #rockofeye #draftingbyhand #bespoketailor #mastertailor #rockofeye #yearsofexperience #likenoother #futureootd #specialsuit #classictailoring #softtailoring #madebyhand #britishtailoring #savilerow #savilerowbespoke #mastercraftsman #learnfromthebest #redmayne1860 #disco #discodancing #speeddrafting #hyperlapse #mondaymotivation #mondaymood